Towards the end of yesterday we could see in the distance, next to the two large “paps” of Jura, one of the most anticipated stops of our trip – Islay. With a high-pressure system approaching we knew today would be our last chance to reach it before the wind died. And with so much to see we wanted to have a few days there. So despite only going to bed at 23:30 last night, the alarm was set for 04:30.
In the morning Jeremy was so tired he didn’t even wake up, which wasn’t an issue as leaving a harbour you’ve already entered is a lot easier than entering an unknown one, even in the dark. Porridge was made on our 30 minute trip back out to our starting point, and we only just had time to get everything ready before it was time to get in the water.
The wind was light, but still kite-able, so we rigged up the two 15 metres. Unfortunately as soon as my kite was ready and I’d slipped into the water the wind disappeared. I was expecting Scotland to be slightly colder than the rest of the coast, but today with the northerly winds there was a marked difference. Within five minutes of waiting in the water I was already slightly chilly, so still attached to my kite, I got dragged back into the dinghy. Dragged being the right word here as there was nothing elegant about this manoeuvre. Even with the lack of wind the kite kept trying to pull me back into the water, but with a big heave from Stew and Jeremy I landed firmly in the dinghy, planting my feet against the sides to brace myself against the pull of the kite.
By the time we’d found and put on my gloves (first time I’d needed them in weeks) the wind had picked up and we started launching Stew’s kite. Unbelievably the exact same thing happened to him as well! The second he was in the water the wind vanished and my kite fell out the sky. So now both of us were swimming and cold!
This time Jeremy came over with my boots to try and help keep me warm. Unfortunately with the kite pulling me one way, the big buoyancy aid restricting how much I could bend, and the seat-harness tight around my legs I couldn’t get the boots on my feet. It took Jeremy and me about 10 minutes to get them on. This process led to lots of giggling as I tried pushing my foot into the boot, the force of which almost sending Jeremy overboard. It was a true Cinderella moment, where the shoe must fit! This struggle was only made worse by us trying to speed up as the wind had obviously decided to arrive just as we’d managed to get a single foot in. Given it had been such a mission for the one foot, I did half think about going one shoe on/one shoe off in some sort of strange fashion protest, but balancing on the foil is difficult enough as it is, without adding this extra unevenness.
Two boots successfully on my feed and we hadn’t been going for more than 5 minutes before the wind started to build, and build and build some more. In no time at all it was easily the top end of a Force 5. As we’d launched the first time we’d seen some clouds upwind of us, but weren’t prepared for how fast they arrived, or how much the wind was going to pickup. After having nothing only a few minutes ago, we soon were extremely overpowered, and asking for a 9m or possibly even a 7m kite something we hadn’t used since our first day leaving Cleathorpse) So Jeremy was deployed again on the dinghy and we put me on the 9m and Stew on the 11m. (The 7m wasn’t rigged ready, and the wind would have to stay this strong for the rest of the day for it to be viable, and we assumed the increase was just due to this first cloud).
The 9m was perfect for me, but Stew was too overpowered on the 11m, so yet another swap was needed, this time putting Stew on the second 9m kite. While he was doing this swap about six of the round Ireland racing yacht came past. All with their spinnakers up, some of them struggling with the strong winds. We watched one single hander with a red spinny swerve wildly from left to right, as it struggled surfing down the waves. It was directly upwind of us, and we had to watch it for a while to determine if it would miss us or if we’d need to move out of it’s way. Just as a precaution, we thought it best to move slightly further inland and downwind just to give it some space. Steering is difficult with the swell behind you even on a motor boat like Mentor, so despite the wild veering from side to side, the helm was doing well given the conditions. Further along we watched as a second boat with a neon green spinnaker broached wildly, his mast tilting dangerously close to the water. Both Joe and I gasped as we watched and then a sign of relief as they recovered. I was amazed that after three days of racing how close so many of them were, all six boats passing us in the space of 15minutes.
Finally, after 2hours and 36 minutes of being in the water, and having only gaining about 3miles upwind, we were on the right equipment for the wind strength and we set off properly for Islay. We reached Rathlin Island, at the top of Northern Ireland about an hour after the tide had turned (~10:30). This meant the current was pulling us away from Islay and we’d be making steadily slower progress. But Mentor was still doing about 6knots to keep up with us, so we decided to go for it.
Half way through the Traffic Separation Scheme (TSS) between Rathlin and Islay, the wind dropped. Usually we try to cross a TSS area as quickly as possible, as these are used by large shipping traffic. But we couldn’t see any on the horizon, and Stew wasn’t able to get going any more on his 9m, so we quickly changed his kite up to a 12m. This was the fastest kite change we’ve ever done. Quick and to the point. I think Stew had whiskey on the mind.
Originally on Islay there were no main roads, so the distilleries used to, and most still do, get their supplies by boat. To ensure both supply vessels, and other visiting seaman went to the correct place, most of the buildings have their names written on the side of their buildings, in large black lettering. Slowly, bit by bit as we approached we could start making these names out. No doubt we’ll be exploring them later tomorrow. I’m excited!
The word pap is a Norse word for breast. Other body parts with Norse origins are foot (fótr), leg (leggr), skin (skinn) and freckles (freknur). And although not a body part, my favourite – cake (kaka), and more appropriate for today gust (gustr).
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Map Key: Stew (Red), Islay (White) and Mentor (Blue)
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